It was
March, my seventeenth birthday, and we were reaching the end of a long weekend
of college visits and family bonding. We'd investigated Amherst College,
Boston University, Hampshire, stopped off at Harvard for good measure-
but while the upcoming college portion of my life was just visible over
the horizon, another part was setting in the distance. There was one final
pit stop on our mini "vacation", and it wasn't of the higher
education variety.
My aunt
had sold "The Vineyard House", our family vacation destination of
choice over the first sixteen years of my life, to move into a nursing home,
and my family was descending on Edgartown for one last group hug before
heading back to reality and the rest of my junior year.
Through
the streets of Falmouth, the trees bare and asphalt wound their way to the edge
of the sea, while Dad cruised along to "Freebird" en route to
the ferry. With my mother in the passenger seat, and my sister next to
me, we reminisced about trips to Menemsha at sunet, climbing the fire
tower off Indian Hill Road, seeking out John Belushi's grave in Chillmark, and
clamming in Katama Bay.
"Remember
when you buried the lucky penny at Belushi's grave?" I asked my sister as
we pulled onto the ferry ramp.
"It
wasn't really his grave, Kris," my dad interjected, running a hand through
his fading red hair.
"Yea.
You wouldn't go into the cemetery so I had to bury it by the plaque in
the front," Nicole chastised.
"I
don't like graveyards," I shrugged. "And besides, it's huge.
You would have wasted all afternoon there."
"And
you wanted to see the lighthouse in Gay Head and find that gas pump on North
Road," mom said, smiling in the rearview mirror as Dad guided the car onto
The Island Queen.
We gently
pulled ahead into our spot, and as soon as the engine ceased, we unbuckled our
belts and leapt out of the car, the giant boat vibrating beneath our feet.
We ran over to the heavy iron door, calling back "We'll be on the
main deck!" before racing up the metal stairs, clanging our feet and enjoying
the echo through the stairwell.
Nicole
and I ran to the railing, a solid wall of white with a porthole window about a
foot off the floor, just big enough for a shoe to fit in to lift my little
sister up over the railing. She leaned over as far as she dared, while I
stood about a foot back, close enough to see the frothing waves, but far enough
that I was sure I wouldn't fall in if the massive ship jutted forward. The
captain honked the air horn, startling both of us, and we giggled, knowing the
ride was about to begin.
It was
always windy on the Vineyard, and the ferry ride in June, July, or even August,
required a sweatshirt to keep out the chill. Here at the end of March, I
pulled my coat tighter around me and stuck my face in the path of the gusts as
the ship began her course towards the island.
The wind
alleviated my motion sickness, helping me to breathe through the waves and the
rolling horizon. I focused on the seagulls hanging in the air,
occasionally dipping down to catch a piece of bagel thrown by a passenger over
the railing. Traversing this little piece of the Atlantic takes a little
more than half an hour, and normally, the Island Queen is overrun with children
sprinting, parents trying to shush them, and the occasional dog whining because
it wants to chase the kids, or seagulls, or both. In the middle of the
off-season, though, the main deck is eerily deserted, with only my family
sitting around the orange plastic tables inside, and an old man perched on the
edge of the bench on the other side of the outdoor area, fiercely determined to
read his book.
With my
hair whipping around my face and chapping my lips, I remembered the ferry
rides of my childhood. Most drives to Falmouth began in the middle of the
night- 2 AM wake up calls from my parents, who would shuttle us into the car
with pillows and blankets. We would protest softly, sleep still cradling
us in its grasp, and curl up under our seatbelts, to be awakened by the sound
of the foghorn, and the car pulling to a stop. We were always just in
time for the first ferry of the day at 6:45 AM, and a bagel with cream cheese
from the truck next to the boat. We'd race around the giant vessel,
which I thought was as grand as the Titanic, and fight to be furthest in front,
so that we were first to see the island come into view through the inevitable
fog. When the car drove off the boat onto land, we did the same thing,
reaching forward to try to be the first one whose fingertips were over the
imaginary "Vineyard" line, so that we could claim to be on the island
the longest.
This
ride, we hung back, not wanting to reach the island, knowing that once we
stepped foot onto solid ground, we were that much closer to never having a home
there to come back to. This time, when the captain made his announcement,
"All passengers, please return to your vehicles," Nicole and I
hesitated, and cautiously padded back down the stairs to our van.
We exited
the ferry straight into Oak Bluffs, the heart of the Vineyard, and immediately
set to delaying the trip to the house.
"Please
can we stop at the Flying Horses?" my sister begged as we approached the
old red building, shaped like a wooden circus tent.
I could
hear the familiar notes, melodic and catchy, emanating through the open
windows, and could just make out the hand carved ponies, affixed to the
whirling base with long poles, from under the black awning designed to keep out
rain and sun.
"Yea
dad, please? We'll only be a minute. It's my birthday. I've never
gotten the gold ring on my birthday!" I pleaded, suddenly sounding so much
younger than the mature student who had been sitting at colleges the day
before, eloquently answering questions and nodding appropriately.
Now my
head bopped up and down, in time with the carnival music wafting through the
windows, and my mind fixated on the brass ring game that went along with a
merry go round ride. Each time the carousel went around, the people on
the horses could reach out and grab a silver ring from a wooden
"arm". The last ring dropped in for each ride was brass, and
whoever grabbed it got an extra ride. It was a joy to revel in being the
only one allowed to take an extra turn, while the rest of the boys and girls
exited past the wooden gate, jealously glancing at you while making their way
back onto the snaking line.
"We'll
head back later, I promise," dad compromised. "I'm not sure
when the boys are getting in, and I want to get to the house."
Nicole
and I looked at each other, and smiled. Seeing our cousins Nate and Luke,
and their dad Bill (my dad’s best friend and first cousin) was worth delaying a
ride on the horses.
We
continued to follow our annual route to the house- a quick stop at the Martha's
Vineyard Gourmet Bakery for muffins and assorted breakfast sweets, then down
past the Tabernacle, a right at the ocean, then straight past the A&P until
we reached the fork at Katama Bay Road.
The ride
to the house felt shorter than usual. There were few cars on the roads,
the locals scarce during the winter, since as the years had passed, more and
more of them had been unable to afford the ever increasing taxes and prices,
and had moved to the mainland. The car curved with the road (which was
dirt when I was little, and had converted to asphalt a few years ago as the
houses got bigger and the cars more expensive). We pulled into the (still
dirt) driveway, and there it was, waiting for us.
The grey
clapboard house was one story, its corners extending towards us in the form of
the garage and the mother-in-law quarters my aunt had put in during her
mother's twilight years. The three black wooden whales hung next to the
door, a tribute to the early Vineyard whaling years. The deck was tired
and splintering, the result of the punishing winds and rain that afflicted the
waterfront property.
We jumped
out of the car before it had come to a complete stop, and stormed towards the
door. The white tin frame clanged behind us as we ran in, and stopped
short on the imitation slate floor, assaulted by the emptiness of the house.
The
usually comfortable living room had been emptied of the overstuffed white
leather couches. The whale above the fireplace was gone too, as were the
spices that normally lined the top of the stove, and the metal fish shaped cake
pan that hung over the refrigerator. The bookshelves were empty, and
there were spots of brighter colored paint where the family pictures used to
hang.
"Is
everything gone?" I whispered, not sure what to do.
"Looks
like it," Nicole answered, her voice shaking a little with the weight of
the situation.
"Wow.
Just… wow." I walked into what was once the living room, and
stareed out at the bay. It was a perfectly calm day, with a blue sky a
few shades lighter than the water, and clouds of the wispy variety, the fickle
kind that disappear in an instant if you don’t pay enough attention to them.
The sun was almost white, and spots appeared in my line of sight when I looked
away, lingering as the onslaught of quiet took over my brain.
Bill and
Nate and Luke arrived, and through the usual hugs and "hey there"
exclamations, there was more sadness in our reunion than I'd ever thought
possible.
My
parents entered behind us, and dad put a hand on my shoulder. "Take
a good look around girls. And take your time."
We toured
the rooms, a troupe of melancholy misfits, overwhelmed by memories and laughter
that still echoed. Walking down the hall first- past my aunt and
uncle's room, past the entrance to the mother-in-law suite and the room we
shared when there were too many kids and not enough beds in our room above the
garage, the silence was deafening. I looked at Nicole as we meandered through
the bathroom towards the outdoor shower.
"Be
careful you don't lock the doors," I reminded her. "I don't
think we have time for Dad and Bill to remove them today."
"That
was one time. And you're SOOO funny," she teased, and stuck her
tongue out.
"Good
times," Bill smiled, laughing at the memory of the two of them, with a
hammer and some rusted out tools, taking the door off its hinges after Nicole
accidentally locked the bathroom from both sides. I turned back towards
the house, and spent much of the next few hours wandering room to room, making
mental notes of the indentations from the grand piano's legs in the family
room, and the smell of the garage (musty with a hint of fish).
"Do
you remember when you and Michael put on the super heroes play?" Nicole
asked while we stood in front of the fireplace, its raised stoop our childhood
stage.
"Yea-
I made that awful paper mask of Wonderwoman's face, and a chest protector and
bracelets and everything." I wrinkled my nose at my subpar childhood
costume design skills.
"And
then Nicole and Andy decided to upstage you by doing the Mexican Butt
Dance," my mom interjected, laughing at the memory.
"I
remember that!" I said, the image of my sister and Andrew at age 4,
pulling down their pants and mooning our relatives still fresh as though it was
from the day before. "Show off," I smirked, and Nicole grinned.
We
climbed the stairs to Uncle William's office, the one separated from
"our" bedroom by a semi-wall covered in wood paneling. It
was eerily empty, with no trace of the notes, clippings, and Walter Cronkite's
phone number that were usually taped to it, even well after my uncle had passed
away (Cronkite's number was something we often joked about dialing, but never
quite had the nerve to go through with- how do you prank call an icon?).
Beyond
the desk, four beds rested in each of the four corners. In their hayday, they
belonged to Luke, Nate, Mike, and Andy. It was their grandparent's house,
and Nicole and I were voluntarily relegated to sleeping bags on the floor,
which we thought made it a little like camping.
This was
our refuge, the floor a dark, gold shag carpeting, matted down from years of
tiny feet dancing over it. The ceiling sloped down on either side,
creating a cave-like feel that we loved. There was a window over Uncle
William's desk, which had a view of the bay, but in our section, the only light
came from a single skylight over the area between where the furthest two beds
had sat- where my sleeping bag was usually situated.
The beds
were gone. The one closest to the stairs, on the right as you ducked your
way into the room, was where Luke introduced me to Tom Petty, strumming
"Freefallin'" on his guitar while we all sang the chorus.
I walked forward, glancing at the built-in shelf, which had housed
the boys' "pee bottles", something only prepubescent boys too lazy to
walk down half a flight of stairs to get to the bathroom would come up with.
Looking up at the skylight, I thought back to the night, when I was
thirteen, that we watched "A Clockwork Orange" and "The
Shining" in one evening, and how I was up well past three am, staring
through the glass at the stars, too wound up and scared to actually get any
sleep.
I found
myself thinking about something I'd always wanted to do, but hadn't been brave
enough to try. I wanted to climb onto the roof over the garage. So as the
sun set, while my family finished one last walk down to the dock, I ventured
around the side of the house. Pushing the plastic garbage can with my
knee, I reached up to the edge of the roof, placed my palms down to check for
friction, and, satisfied, hoisted myself up with a groan. Small pieces of
the roof sprinkled over the edge in cascades of black and white as I pressed my
knees into the crumbling shingles, and scrambled safely away from the edge.
I caught my breath and turned around, wondering if climbing around on top
of the house was the best idea.
Readjusting
to a sitting position, I leaned back in my green jacket, the fake-down stuffing
cushioned my back, and prevented my elbows from chaffing. I tapped my heels as
I settled down, looking out at the rooftops of the other houses on the street,
and marveling at the two story structures that had replaced the simple one and
two bedroom ranches of a few years before. The thorny rose bushes, with
their slightly tangy smell, dark magenta flowers, and deep green leaves,
wrestled with each other in the wind. Beyond them, seaweed tangles, which
we had used as wigs in our childhood, lay limp in the sand by the bay.
This was my island home, summer personified for the first seventeen years
of my existence. This was family vacations and family lore, legendary
stories about Grandma Caldwell, the one who could catch flies with her bare
hands, and Uncle William- Bill- who once boarded up the whole house to prepare
for a hurricane- and hammered in the last nail as the announcement came over
the radio that the storm had shifted course and was moving south.
"Kris?
Kris are you out here? We have to get going," my mom's voice
cut through the wind and my thoughts.
"I'll
be right there," I called down, looking out one last time at the
reflection of the sun on the water, before shimmying down to the edge of the
roof and dropping my legs over the edge. I looked down, realized it was
only about a four foot drop, and let go, jumping past the empty garbage can,
and turning towards the dirt driveway.
I
rejoined the family as dad and Bill ceremoniously removed the black wooden
whales from the outside wall before we loaded ourselves back into the van.
When we drove out of the driveway, I forced myself to face forward, but I
leaned my chair back a little bit, just enough so that I was the last family
member to technically leave the property. With the window down, I let my
hair wave goodbye.